Noni Time!

The beginning of December was very exciting… MY NONI WAS COMING TO VISIT ME!! I was so excited to have my sister (whom I affectionately call Noni) in my new home-town and to see her and to hang out and to shop 

and to eat and to just be with her! I couldn’t wait!

Finally the day came… Hooray! But my anticipation was extended even longer as she was late due to delayed planes, trains and automobiles.  Christina and I waited in the snow, our toes frozen, for her train and finally, a very tired and a tad delirious Noni arrived! We scooped her up, after almost 30 hours of traveling, and took her home to feed her full of good things. We had a 

good sleep and then the fun really began…

 After sleeping well into the afternoon on Saturday, we ventured into the city to explore. I showed her all of the beautiful, quaint spots I had found. Cathedral, check! Place Jaude, check! Cute French boys, CHECK! With our smoke-like breath to keep us company in the cold, brisk air, we saw all we could fit into a few short hours before the shops closed, then headed home for dinner and party prep!

 All dolled up, we went to a party at friend’s fabulous apartment. Sitting with all the Frenchies 

amidst red walls and paintings galore, we sipped on red wine for hours.

 Stained red lips are a common thing here, luckily we beat the wine to it as we were both wearing bright red lipstick. This allowed for lots of fun as red lips invite kissing… And as you can see we kissed a lot of people!

 That evening we had to say goodbye to Christina who was headed for Paris the following day. We met up with some friends for drinks at Magma—what a riot! Nothing brings out cultural differences like drinking, and nothing makes those differences more funny than being drunk! 

Despite that during the week, I had to work, Jess and I kept busy. We certainly ate well… crepes, truffade, pastries, éclairs, and everything else delicious!

Now this is what I call heaven! 

Noni's new hat! Too cute! 

We were frequent visitors of the Christmas market where, under the tent of lights, we drank mulled wine and ate trouffard (which is SO good!) and bought many presents. One Wednesday we went to Royattonic, the local spa from heaven. Two and half hours of hot pools and saunas made us very prune-ie, but very happy!

Truffade.... Mmm!

View of the city! 

The weekend brought many more fun evenings out. After dancing the night away at Rat Pack, the Rock bar that is always packed with people dancing to Nirvana (an interesting sight to see), we finished the night with some of my closest friends at Couch Tard. Couch Tard is an interesting place: a restaurant that is only open from 5-9AM and only serves steak and French fries… delicious! Bellies full, my Noni and I returned home to sleep the day away like vampires…

Our last day together was lazy but great! The best part about having my Noni here was just getting to BE with her. It was a nice end to a great 10 days together. Love you Noni, Noni!!! 

Couch occupé

I have an interesting family. We are not all globed together in one city, let alone one state. I have grandmas in California, aunts and uncles in Australia, cousins in New Jersey, Alaska, Texas, and New Zealand, and even more family members in Canada, South Africa, Croatia and Switzerland. Sure we have very few family reunions, but being spread-out across the globe gives us the chance to travel, a fact I know I have made use of on more than one occasion. That said, with me living in Clermont-Ferrand, I was bound to get some visitors.

In November, my cousin Christina from Alaska came to stay. She had been staying in Europe for the 5 previous months and she finally had some time to visit me. In total she stayed with me for 3 weeks, which had the potential to be strenuous with both of us in my small apartment, but it was fantastic! It was so nice to have someone to cook for and eat with.

I introduced Christina to my many friends and my partying lifestyle. We went out quite a bit, drinking and dancing until the wee hours of the morning on many occasions. My dear friend, Brandon, and I decided to host a traditional Thanksgiving dinner party chez lui for the big day! We managed to find all of the necessary ingredients, except for cranberries which apparently don’t exist in Europe, and even a 5 kilo turkey, which is huge by European standards. Baking pies and doing some of the prep work the night before helped lighten the load for the following day. 

Christina and I were at Brandon’s by noon to start cooking! The turkey was the first order of business: luckily it was plucked and ready to go (you never know here). We buttered her up and popped her in! Then came the hard part: Brandon’s kitchen is much smaller than any kitchen back home, so preparing a meal for 13 people required some strategy and planning. But by the end, everything worked out to perfection! Yum!

What a beauty!

             Marshmallow perfection!                

Homemade pies on the window sill...

Looking good! 

Dinner! Bon appetite! 

The finished product.... SO GOOD!!

Come December, the Christmas market was in full swing at Place de la Victoire! There were booths selling all sorts of goodies: candles, chocolates, ornaments, clothes, scarves, roasted chestnuts, mulled wine, and everything Christmas-y. Eating a piping hot plate of Truffard—the local potato and cheese dish—while the snow fell was amazing and made it even tastier! 

One afternoon we went to Royattonic, a spa in a nearby suburb. As the delicate snow fell, each unique flake falling with grace to the snow covered ground, we plunged into the warm waters of the spa! The spa included indoor and outdoor pools of warm water, hot tubs, hammams,  saunas and an ice-cold frigidarium… it was heaven! Being warm while the snow feel around us was incredible and beautiful! We left feeling clean, warm, rejuvenated, and simply fabulous! 

As you can't take pictures inside, I borrowed this from the site. I know it's not in focus, but it gives you a rough idea... http://www.royatonic.com/galerie_photos/galerie_interieur.asp

Vacation, All I Ever Wanted…

My first month in Clermont was an interesting one. As some of you may have heard, there were debilitating, violent strikes all over the country about the retirement reform (the retirement age was moved from 60 to 62). 

Well, American media has a flare for the dramatic; there were indeed strikes here but they were in no way the dangerous, revolutionary revolts they were made out to be! Sure, buses and trains were on strike which made getting to school impossible for a few days but hey, who can complain about a free get-out-of-school pass? Yet, once the buses started functioning again the high schoolers started to strike… about retirement reform! 

The students blocking the entrance to the school. 

 So, my first official week to have my own classes was postponed because there were only about 4 students from a class of 30. This went on for the week before the fall break (no coincidence, I’m sure) which was a week of vacation (yes, a paid vacation my first month on the job… don’t ya just love France!). I packed my bags and went first to Grenoble and then to Paris. 

A quick back-story about why I was going to Grenoble— shortly after I arrived in Clermont, I received an email from Marina Fuchs saying that we were related on my paternal grandfather’s side. So, we began to chat and sure enough my family tree had exploded! My great-great grandfather’s brother is Marina’s great grandfather—distantly related, needless to say. After emailing back and forth a bit, Marina kindly invited me to come visit. Well, I’d never been to Grenoble and I was curious to meet my new family. 

I arrived in Grenoble and settled into my room for the weekend. Marina and her husband Jean-Charles have a lovely home on the mountain side, overlooking the beautiful city of Grenoble.

The next day we were invited to lunch at Marina and Jean-Charles’ daughter’s home. Well, Marina and I both share a love for cooking, so we made fresh pasta to bring along!!! I had never made pasta from scratch before; it was a lot of work, but well worth the effort! 

Marina mixing the ingredients for pasta! 

Drying pasta... 

... on a broomstick! 

We had a great lunch getting to know one another. Alexandra has three beautiful children who showed me around their farm—horses, dogs, and a goose, OH MY! We played a bit despite the rain and continued to get to know one another. 

Alexandra's home

The really cool lake-pool

Lunch! Yum Yum! 

  Later, Marina, Jean-Charles and I, accompanied by the adorable Emilie, went to a pumpkin/harvest festival. Under the safety of our umbrellas, we explored each booth selling local cheese, honey, mead, baskets, and art. Oh the cheese was divine!

Grenoble from Marina and Jean Charles' balcony! 

 After Grenoble, I was Paris bound. I was able to stay with my old roommate, Anas, in my old apartment. Nostalgia was in the air… it felt so good to walk up my old stairs, explore my old market, and visit all of my old stompin’ grounds!

My first evening in Paris was a special one… accompanied by old Parisian/American friends, Michel and Michelle, we had a lovely, albeit quick, dinner chez Michel consisting of the best cheese, bread and wine Paris had to offer! 

 Running late for the evening’s event, we inhaled the delicious treats and went off to the theater. Becoming Parisian in One Hour was a one man show in English performed by a Parisian. It was hilarious! His global message: to be Parisian, you must look like you have something better you could be doing at all times, even during sex! It was a riot!

 The rest of the week was filled with visiting the city and seeing old friends. I dined with my dear friend Tolan from Tucson (who was doing a semester abroad), lunched with my old professor and classmates from Sciences Po, and painted the town red with more old friends. It was a great week, needless to say!

Tolan and me in front of Les Deux Magots, a very famous cafe in Saint Germain des Pres! 

Then it was back to Clermont, back to work, back to this so called ‘real-life’ I’m living!  

My neighborhood

Everybody, I’d like you to meet my neighborhood. Neighborhood, I’d like you to meet Everybody!

Almost 2 months ago (Yeesh! Where did the time go?!?) I moved into my very cute apartment. It’s about 20 meters squared (about 65 feet squared), completely furnished, near the city center, and is quite cozy on a cold winter’s day. Here is a silly video and a photo:

                                    :

My neighborhood is quiet most of the time, but it can also move and shake: bustling with young teenagers at 8am (I live next door to a high school), quaint cafes and secret nightclubs… summed up in a word—charming. Here are a few photos from around my ‘hood: 

Clermont Ferrand, the part of the city not limited to the block around my apartment, is just as charming if not more. The city is surrounded by dormant volcanoes and so the people have made use of what resource comes with volcanoes… lava. That’s right. I live in a city filled with black buildings and sidewalks, and the most incredible of all, a black cathedral made from lava. Some find that depressing, I find it positively awesome. I mean who else can say they have a gothic, catholic cathedral made from black lava?!? Clermont can!

Cathedral

Opera House

Notre Dame du Port! The most amazing mosaic work I've ever seen! 

The main street leading up to the cathedral

My lava cathedral! 

The city is small-ish, only 70,000 inhabitants, but it in no way feels small because there is always something fun to do. There is an amazing music scene here with a variety of musical talents from folk to heavy metal. I have never been to so many concerts in my life! Also, Clermont is home to the internationally recognized short film festival, which happens in February, and I have heard only good things. I’m very much looking forward to that! 

And last but not least, Clermont Ferrand is home to France’s best rugby team, A.S.M. I haven’t been to a game yet, but I look forward to the day when I can put on the yellow and blue war paint and drink myself silly at a real match.

After being a student for so long, boy is it weird to be on the other side of the desk… As is often the case, I have a new appreciation for all my teachers! Lesson plans—what a pain! Trying to find interesting and yet important subjects to teach, encourage discussions and remember all of our names. I bow to you! “Am not worthy!”

My School

So, needless to say, teaching has been interesting. I like the opportunity to impart knowledge on the youth of France, but when everyone suddenly becomes so interested in their pencil case the second I ask a question, I get a bit frustrated. Trying to inspire kids to want to learn is the most challenging, but then again I know they study 10 subjects for 7 hours a day, 5 days a week. I may very well be tired and overwhelmed, but as are they.

Please don’t get me wrong, my kids are great! I teach 12 hours a week, so I have about 12 different classes and every student I meet is wonderful! I was really lucky to be placed in this school because it is a good school with great kids. I even started an English Club so that even more students could practice their English with a Native; I had my first meeting last week and it was great! We talked about everything from WikiLeaks to TV shows to Prince William's engagement to Kate Middleton. It was so fun and inspiring that it even reminded me of a certain Book Club I was once in!

  And lucky me, my colleagues are fantastic, too! Everyone in the school, from administration and teachers, to hall monitors and janitors has been warm and welcoming. My first weeks here, I was invited to the homes of several of my colleagues from the English department. I did take up one of them, Isabelle, for lunch at her home.

It was the day before my birthday, so I welcomed the idea of a nice meal with a nice family. (Sorry guys, I tried to replace you!) And it was lovely! A fresh ratatouille with wine and French conversation… heavenly! And then Isabelle surprised me with a birthday cake!

Yummy! Then after lunch we went for a hike to the top of a hill atop which a small, old chapel stood with a magnificent view of the patchwork fields that stretched as far as the eye could see. Then we went for a little drive through some of the neighboring cities… I saw buildings that dated back to 1010!! Take that, “historical neighborhood” in Mesa (who's houses are from 1911-1950)! 

Isabelle and her two lovely daughters, Lisa and Rafaelle 

In other news, winter has arrived. I’m already ready for it to be over. Seriously. I’ve realized that I don’t really like snow, or rather I like it but I don't want to live with it. I mean it’s cold, slippery, deceiving, and gets in your eyes. Sure it’s pretty, but I can’t appreciate anything because I’m too busy walking like an old lady, staring at the ground, trying not to fall over. It’s going to be a long winter…. 

I don't have any pictures yet of the beautiful Place Jaude with the big Christmas tree and ferris wheel all covered in snow, but I will work on that and get back to you! 

I hope you're all well! Happy Holidays!